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Cayo Coco & Cayo Guillermo: paradise beach guide for Cuba

Discover Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo, two jewels of the Jardines del Rey archipelago with white sand beaches and turquoise waters.

Aroma de Cuba · · 5 min read
White sand beach with turquoise waters in Cuba's northern keys

The Jardines del Rey archipelago

Off Cuba’s northern coast, connected by a stunning 17-kilometer causeway over turquoise shallows, Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo form the heart of the Jardines del Rey (Gardens of the King) archipelago. Named in honor of Spanish King Ferdinand VII, this chain of islands hides some of the Caribbean’s most spectacular beach destinations.

Cayo Coco, at 370 km², is Cuba’s fourth-largest key. Its neighbor Cayo Guillermo, much smaller at just 13 km², more than compensates with beaches ranked among the world’s finest. Together they offer a perfect combination of pristine nature, coral reefs, and resort comforts.

Must-visit beaches

Playa Pilar — the crown jewel

Located at the western tip of Cayo Guillermo, Playa Pilar is widely considered Cuba’s most beautiful beach. Its white sand dunes reach up to 15 meters high — the tallest in the insular Caribbean. The waters are so transparent you can see the bottom several meters out.

The beach takes its name from Ernest Hemingway’s yacht Pilar. The novelist frequented these waters during the 1940s, hunting German submarines and fishing for blue marlin. Today the beach preserves that spirit of discovery: it’s less crowded than hotel beaches and maintains a wilder atmosphere.

Pro tip: Arrive early morning to enjoy the beach nearly empty. There’s a ranchón (beach grill) with food and drinks, but bring extra sunscreen and water.

Playa Flamencos — the longest stretch

At over 3 kilometers of white sand, Playa Flamencos on Cayo Coco is the longest and most popular beach on the keys. Its name comes from the pink flamingo colonies inhabiting nearby lagoons. The beach has a gradual entry into the sea, making it ideal for families with children.

Several major all-inclusive hotels line this beach, meaning excellent service infrastructure: loungers, beach bars, water sports, and restaurants.

Playa Las Coloradas

Quieter than Flamencos, Las Coloradas offers a more intimate experience. A natural coral barrier near shore creates calm natural pools perfect for wading. It’s excellent for snorkeling directly from the sand.

Playa Larga (Cayo Coco)

Not to be confused with Playa Larga at the Bay of Pigs. This Cayo Coco version is a pristine stretch combining mangroves, fine sand, and abundant marine life. Less visited, perfect for those seeking solitude.

Beyond the beach

The pedraplén: a road over the sea

Arriving at the keys is an experience in itself. The pedraplén — a 17 km elevated causeway built over shallow seas — connects Cayo Coco with mainland Cuba. During the crossing, waters shift from emerald green to deep blue, and it’s common to spot flamingos, pelicans, and herons from the car.

Snorkeling and diving

The reefs surrounding both keys are part of the world’s second-largest coral barrier reef (after Australia’s Great Barrier Reef). Notable dive sites include:

  • La Jaula: shallow reef ideal for beginners, teeming with tropical fish
  • Cayo Guillermo underwater caves: for certified divers, featuring black coral formations
  • Media Luna: coral wall dropping over 30 meters, home to turtles and rays

Hotel dive centers offer daily excursions. A discovery dive costs approximately $60-80 USD, while certified dives run $40-50 USD per immersion.

Flamingo watching

Cayo Coco hosts one of the Caribbean’s largest pink flamingo colonies. The key’s interior lagoons and the nearby La Redonda lake on the mainland are prime viewing spots. The best time is at sunrise when flamingos feed in the shallow waters.

Day trip to Morón and Laguna de la Leche

Just 40 minutes by road from the causeway, Morón is the gateway town on the mainland. Its most famous landmark is the metal rooster at the town entrance — the city’s symbol. Nearby lies Laguna de la Leche (Milk Lake), Cuba’s largest natural reservoir, where you can fish for bass and experience rural Cuban life.

Accommodation: options for every budget

All-inclusive hotels

Most visitors choose all-inclusive packages. Top picks include:

HotelRatingLocationBest for
Meliá Cayo Coco5★Playa Las ColoradasAdults only
Iberostar Playa Pilar5★Cayo GuillermoCouples
Memories Flamenco4★Playa FlamencosFamilies
Sol Cayo Coco4★Playa FlamencosMid-budget

Budget alternatives

While the keys themselves don’t have private guesthouses, nearby towns like Morón and Ciego de Ávila offer casas particulares at much lower rates ($15-30 USD/night). From there you can reach the keys by taxi or organized excursions.

Practical tips

Currency: Hotels accept euros and US dollars. For off-resort excursions, carry CUP cash.

Internet: Hotel WiFi has improved but remains slow and pricey. Buy ETECSA cards if you need connectivity outside the resort.

Sun protection: UV radiation on the keys is intense. Use SPF 50+ and reapply frequently, especially after swimming.

Recommended excursions: Most hotels offer trips to Trinidad (long but worthwhile), the fish caves, and sunset catamaran cruises.

Best season: November to April is dry season. July-August is hot but hotels offer good deals.

Getting there

  • Direct flights: Jardines del Rey International Airport (code CCC) receives international flights from Canada and Europe, plus domestic connections from Havana
  • By road: From Havana it’s ~530 km (8 hours) via the National Highway to Ciego de Ávila, then the causeway
  • Viazul bus: Service to Morón or Ciego de Ávila, then taxi to the keys (~$25-35 USD)

Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo represent the best of Cuba’s beach tourism: crystal-clear waters, powdery sand, and the tranquility of a paradise that, despite the resorts, retains its wild essence. If you’re looking for the Caribbean’s most beautiful beaches without leaving Cuba, you’ll find them here.

Read also: Valle de Viñales: complete guide to Cuba’s natural paradise | Varadero: guide to Cuba’s most famous beach | Ciénaga de Zapata: ecotourism in the Caribbean’s largest wetland

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best time to visit Cayo Coco?
The dry season from November to April offers the best weather, with temperatures between 75-82°F and little rainfall. December to March is peak season with higher prices.
How do you get to Cayo Coco from Havana?
You can fly to Jardines del Rey International Airport (CCC) from Havana in about 1 hour. By road, a 17 km causeway connects the keys to mainland Cuba, but the total drive from Havana takes around 8 hours.
Can you visit Cayo Coco without staying at a resort?
Yes, while most visitors stay at all-inclusive hotels, you can take day trips from Morón or Ciego de Ávila. Private guesthouses (casas particulares) in nearby mainland towns offer budget-friendly alternatives.
Is Playa Pilar really the best beach in Cuba?
Many travelers consider it Cuba's most beautiful beach thanks to its sand dunes reaching up to 15 meters, pristine white sand, and crystal-clear shallow waters. It was Ernest Hemingway's favorite retreat — he named his boat Pilar after this place.
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